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Fair Isle and Colourwork

Beautiful Fair Isle-style patterning is seen to best advantage in these unisex designs… choose a traditional slipover or an up-to-the-minute fashion waistcoat

CAUTION. It is essential to work to the stated tension, and Patons and Baldwins Limited cannot accept responsibility for the finished product if any yarn other than the recommended Patons yarn is used. Buy the full amount of yarn at one time to avoid variations in dye lots.
Pair each Nos 31 mm, 34 mm and 4 mm Beehive or Milward needles. Needle sizes quoted are Metric: equiv­alent UK sizes are No 10 for 31 mm, No 9 for 3i mm and No 8 for 4 mm. 5 buttons for Waistcoat.
Check your tension
Cast on 23 sts on No 4 mm needles. Work 30 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off. The square should measure 4 in each way.
If your tension is right in stocking stitch it should be right in any other fabric. If the square is bigger your work is too loose; try a size finer needle. If it is smaller your work is too tight; try a size larger needle.
Any alteration in needle size should be carried throughout the design. Colour Patt Tension: 64 sts and 61 rows to I in measured over patt on No 4 mm needles.
Sizes
The figures in square brackets [] refer to the 5 larger sizes.
These garments have been specially de­signed for the size range given and it is regretted that no adaptations are avalable.
Abbreviations
K = knit ; P = purl ; st = stitch ; sL 1 P = slip stitch purlways; yb = yarn back-take yarn to back of needle; tog= together. tbl= through back of loops; inc = increase by working into front and back of stitch ; dec= decrease by working 2 stitches to­gether. beg= beginning ; alt -alternate; rep= repeat ; patt = pattern; in = inches; cm = centimetres; mm = millimetres; 0 =no stitches or times. MS- Main Shade; 1st C =1st Contrast ; 2nd C= 2nd Contrast ; 3rd C = 3rd Con­trast; 4th C =4th Contrast ; 5th C =5th Contrast. MI = make I stitch by picking up hori­zontal loop lying before next stitch and working into back of it.

When working colour patt from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 sts at a time to keep fabric elastic. Read odd rows K from right to left and even rows P from left to right. Slipover BACK
*• With No 31 mm needles and MS, CE 100 [106, 112, 120, 126, 132] sts and work in K I, PI rib for 3 [3, 31, 34, 34, 34] in. Next row-Rib 5 [3, I, 5, 3, 1], M I , (rib 9 [10, I I, 11, 12, 13], Ml) 10 times, rib to end (1 1 I [117, 123, 131, 137, 143] sts).
Change to No 4 mm needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 46 rows in patt from chart A, repeating the 8 patt sts 13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 17] times across and working first 3 [2, 1, 1, 0, 3] sts and fast 4 [3, 2, 2, 1, 4] sts on K rows and first 4 [3, 2, 2, I, 4] sts and last 3 [2, 1, 1, 0, sts on P rows as indicated. Continue in patt until Back measures 13 [14, 154, 15, 154, 154] in, ending with right side facing for next row. **
Keeping continuity of patt, shape arm­holes by casting off 7 [7, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st a: each end of next 7 [9, 9, 9, 9, 11] rows, then I st at each end of every alt row 3 [2, 2, 3, 3, 2] times (77 [81, 87, 93, 97, 101] sts). Work straight until Back measures 204 [22, 24, 244, 254, 26] in, ending with right side facing for next row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 6 [7, 8, 00-N 8, 9] sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 7 [6, k 9, 9] sts at beg of following 2 rows. Leave remaining 39 [41, 43, 45, 47, 47] sts on a length of yarn.
FRONT
Work as for Back from ** to **. Keeping continuity of patt, shape arm­holes and V Neck as follows: Next row-Cast off 7 [7, 7, 7, 8, 8], patt 46 [49, 52, 56, 58, 61] sts (including st on needle after cast off), K2tog, turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.
Continue on these 47 [50, 53, 57, 59, 62] sts for first side as follows: Work I row. Dec I st at front edge on next and every following alt row, at the same time dec st at armhole edge on every row 7 [9, 9, 9, 11] times, then on every following alt row 3 [2, 2, 3, 3, 2] times (30 [32, 35, 37, 39, 41] sts). Continue dec I st on every alt row at front slope only until 25 [27, 31, 32, 34, 37] sts remain. Work 2 rows, then dec I st at front slope only on next and every following 3rd row until 19 [20, 22, 24, 25, 27] sts remain.

Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shapings, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 [7, 8, 8, 8, 9] sts at beg of next and following alt row. Work 1 row.

Cast off remaining 7 [6, 6, 8, 9, 9] sts.

With right side facing, slip centre st on a safety-pin, rejoin appropriate colours to remaining sts, K2tog, patt to end.

Complete to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

MAKE UP AND BORDERS With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly following instructions on the ball band. Use 30in lengths of yarn and a large needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Using a fine back-stitch seam, join right shoulder.
Neck Border: With right side facing, No 3f mm needles and MS, knit up 52 [56, 62, 66, 70, 72] sts down left side of neck, K centre st from safety-pin (mark this st with a coloured thread), knit up 52 [56, 62, 66, 70, 72] sts up right side, K39 [41, 43, 45, 47, 47] from back, dec 1 st at centre (143 [153, 167, 177, 187, 191] sts). Work in rib as follows:

1st row-* PI, KI ; rep from * to within 2 sts of marked st, P2tog, P1, P2togtbl, ** KI,P1; rep from ** to end.

2nd row-K I, * P1, KI; rep from * to within 2 sts of marked st, P2togtbl, K I, P2tog, ** K1, P 1 ; rep from ** to last st, KI.

 Rep these 2 rows 3 [3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times more, then 1st row again.

Cast off evenly in rib. Using a flat seam for ribbing and a fine back-stitch seam for remainder, join re­maining shoulder seam and Neck Border. Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 31 mm needles and MS, knit up 98 [106, 120, 126, 132, 138] sts all round armhole.

Work 9 [9, 9, 11, I I,        rows KI, PI rib.

Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and Armhole Borders. Press seams.

Waistcoat

BACK

With No 34 mm needles and MS, cast on 85 [91, 97, 109, 115, 121] sts and work in KI, PI rib for 14 in, rows on right side having a K I at each end.

Change to No 31 mm needles and continue in rib, shaping sides by inc 1 st at each end of 1 I th [11th, 1 1 th, 21st, 21st, 21st] and every following 10th [10th, 10th, 20th, 20th, 20th] row until there are 97 [103, 109, 115, 121, 127] sts taking inc sts into rib.

Work straight until Back measures 104 [104, 104, 11, I I, 11] in, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of rib, shape armholes by casting off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of next 3 [3, 5, 3, 5, 5] rows.

Work 1 row.

Now dec 1 st at each end of next and every alt row until 69 [73, 77, 85, 89, 95] sts remain.

Work straight until Back measures 18 [184, 19, 20f, 21, 214] in, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 [6, 6, 7, 8, 8] sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 5 [6, 7, 8, 7, 9] sts at beg of following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining 35 [37, 39, 41, 43, 45] sts.

LEFT FRONT

With No 4 mm needles and MS, cast on 2 sts.

1st row-K2. 2nd row-PI, MI, PI. Joining in and breaking off colours as required and starting with a 3rd row work in colour patt from chart B [B, B, C, C,

C], reading odd rows K from right to left and even rows P from left to right, shaping point by inc 1 st at each end of every row until there are 33 [37, 41, 37, 41, 45] sts, thus ending with wrong side facing for next row

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes •

Next rowPatt to last st, inc in last st. Next row-Inc in first st, patt to last st, inc in last st. Rep last 2 rows 1 [0, 2, 1, 0] times more (39 [40, 46, 47, 48] sts).

All sizes

Next row-(Wrong side), patt to last st, inc in last st.

4th, 5th and 6th sizes

Next row-Cast on [4, 5, 5] sts at beg of next row, patt across these sts, patt to last st, inc in last st. Next row-Pats to end.

All sizes

Next row-Cast on 3 [4, 6, 5, 5, 6] sts at beg of next row, patt across these sts, patt to last st, inc in last st.

Next row-Patt to end.

Next row-Cast on 4 [5, 6, 4, 5, 6] sts at beg of next row, patt across these sts, patt to end (48 [51, 55, 62, 65, 68] sts).

Place a marker at beg of last row.

Next row-Patt to end.

Continue in patt as set, but working from chart A, thus your next row will be as 25th [25th, 25th, 31st, 31st. 31st] row of Chart A, noting that the 8 patt st repeat remains the same and the first 0 [2, 5, 2, 4, 6] sts and last 0 [1, 2, 4, 5, 6] sts on K rows, and first 0 [1, 2, 4, 5, 6] sts and last 0 [2, 5, 2, 4, 6] sts on P rows are taken into patt as required, at the same time shape sides by inc 1 st at beg of 3rd [3rd, 3rd, 11th, 11th, 9th] and every following 8th [8th, 8th, 12th, 12th, 10th] row until there are 55 [58, 62, 66, 69, 73] sts, taking inc sts into patt. Work straight in patt until Front meas­ures 9 [9, 9, 91, 94, 91] in from marker, ending with right side facing for next row. Keeping continuity of patt, shape arm­hole and front slope as follows:

1st row-Cast off 7 [7, 7, 7, 8, 8], patt to last 2 sts, K2tog. 2nd row-Patt to end. Dec 1 st at front edge on next and every alt row, at the same time dec 1 st at arm­hole edge on every row 7 [9, 9, 9, 9, 11] times, then on every following alt row 3 [2, 2, 3, 3, 2] times (30 [32, 36, 38, 40, 43] sts).

Continue dec as before at front edge only until 25 [27, 31, 32, 34, 37] sts remain. Work 2 rows, then dec 1 st at front edge on next and every following 3rd row un­til 19 [20, 23, 24, 25, 27] sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shapings, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 [7, 8, 8, 8, 9] sts at beg of next and following alt row. Work I row.

Cast off remaining 7 [6, 7, 8, 9, 9] sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, reversing shapings and noting that when working from charts odd rows will be worked ‘K’ from left to right and even rows ‘P’ from right to left.

MAKE UP AND BORDERS With wrong side facing, press Fronts only following instructions on the ball band. Make up as for Slipover. •

Using a fine back-stitch seam, join shoulders.

Front Borders: Her Version-With No 34 mm needles and MS, cast on 11 sts.

1st row-(Right side), K2, (P1, K 1 ) 4 times, Kl. 2nd row-K I, (P1, KI) 5 times. Rep these 2 rows until Border, when slightly stretched, fits along lower edge from left side edge to base of point, end­ing with a 1st row.

Shape 1st mitre as follows:

** 1st row-Rib 9, turn.

2nd and every alt row-Keeping yarn at front of work, sL I P, yb, rib to end.

3rd row-Rib 7, turn. 5th row-Rib 5, turn. 7th row-Rib 3, turn.

8th row-As 2nd. **

9th and 10th rows-Rib to end. 11th row-As 7th.

12th and every alt row-As 2nd.

13th row-As 5th. 15th row-As 3rd. 17th row-As 1st.

18th row-As 2nd. ***

Continue in rib across all sts, until strip fits to end of point shaping, ending with a I st row.

Now work as for 1st mitre from ** to **. Continue in rib across all sts until strip 5 fits up left front edge, round back of neck and down right front edge to start of point, ending with a 1st row and with the addition of 5 buttonholes, first to come

in below start of front slope shaping, las to come 2 rows above last inc on point, remainder spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons with pins on Left Front, then work buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole(Right side), rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end and back casting on 2 over those cast off.

Shape mitre as follows:

1st row-Rib 3, turn. 2nd and every alt row-Keeping yarn at front of work, sL1P, yb, rib to end.   10
3rd row-Rib
5, turn. 5th row-Rib 7, turn. 7th row-Rib 9, turn. 8th row-As 2nd.                 

Continue in rib across all sts until strip fits to base of point, ending with a 1st row, then work as for 1st mitre from first ** to ***.

Continue in rib across all sts until strip fits to right side edge.

Cast off evenly in rib.

His Version: Work as for Front Border of Her Version but marking position of buttons with pins on Right Front, first top—14 come 2 rows above last inc on point, las to come I in below start of front slope shaping, working buttonholes to corre­spond thus: (Right side), rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end and back casting on 2 over those cast off.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 31 mm needles and MS, knit up 111 [117, 123, 139, 145, 157] sts round each armhole.

Work 10 rows K1, PI rib, rows on wrong side having a PI at each end and dec I st at each end of 2nd and every alt row. Cast off evenly in rib.

Using a fine back-stitch seam, join sides leaving sufficient free at lower edge of Back for Border, then join Armhole Borders.

Sew Border in position all round Fronts and back of neck, then sew cast-on and cast-off edges to Back.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

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