James the Red Engine

pattern 1

James the Red Engine

... 8

from * to end.

2nd Rib Row: K 1, * P 1, K 1; rep from * to end.

Rep these 2 rows until welt measures 4 [4, 6, 6, 6] cm, 1 1/2 [1 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2] in. Cast off in rib.

With P side facing and using 3 1/4 mm needles, pick up 29 [33, 36, 38, 42] sts along lower edge. With K side facing and using A, K 1 row. Dec 1 st at side edge on 3rd, 4th and 5th sizes. 29 [33, 35, 37, 41] sts. Cont in rib as for back welt until welt measures 4 [4, 6, 6, 6] cm, 1 1/2 [1 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2] in. Cast off in rib.

With P side facing and using 3 1/4 mm needles, pick up 43 [45, 47, 49, 53] sts along lower edge of sleeve. With K side facing and using A, K 1 row, dec 8 [8, 8, 8, 10] sts evenly. 35 [37, 39, 41, 43] sts. Cont in rib as for back welt until cuff measures 4 cm, 1 1/2 in. Cast off in rib.

Join shoulder seams. With K side facing and using 3 1/2 mm circular needle and A, pick up and K 10 [10, 14, 14, 14] sts along right front rib, 40 [43, 46, 54, 60] sts along straight edge, 32 [37, 41, 42, 46] sts along shaped edge to shoulder, 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] sts across back neck, 32 [37, 41, 42, 46] sts along shaped edge of left front, 40 [43, 46, 54, 60] sts along straight edge and 10 [10, 14, 14, 14] sts along rib. 187 [205, 229, 249, 271] sts. Cont in rib as for back welt, work 3 rows for girl or 2 rows for boy.

1st Buttonhole Row: Rib 4, * cast off 2 sts. Rib until there are 12 [13, 11, 13, 11] sts on right-hand needle after buttonhole; rep from * 2 [2, 3, 3, 4] times more, cast off 2 sts, rib to end.

2nd Buttonhole Row: Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over those cast off in previous row. Work 3 rows for girl or 4 rows for boy. Cast off in rib.

With wrong side facing, pin out all pieces to measurements given. Press carefully, following instructions on ball band.

Set in sleeves, matching centre to shoulder seams. Join side and sleeve seams. Sew on buttons. Using colours as indicated, embroider face and features as shown on chart.

Shows Rows 1-36, indicators for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th sizes.

Shows Rows 1-40. BACK SIZES. Indicators for End Left Front, End Right Front. Indicators for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th sizes.

Shows Rows 1-24. SLEEVE SIZES. BACK/FRONT SIZES.

[blank] = Cream (A)

[dot] = Grey (D)

[x] = Black (B)

[circle] = Red (C)

[solid circle] = White (F)

[/] = Yellow (E)

Britt Allcroft's Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends Based on The Railway Series by the Rev W Awdry

Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends material (C) Britt Allcroft (Thomas) Limited 1992

Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends is a trademark of Britt Allcroft (Thomas) Limited

All publishing and underlying copyright worldwide William Heinemann Limited

Britt Allcroft is a trademark of The Britt Allcroft Group Limited

Lacy Patterns, Tuck Stitching, Jacquard, Fairisle

Sirocco is the 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool yarn from Forsell.

Because it knits like a 3-ply, Sirocco is ideal for lacy patterns, tuck stitching, Jacquard and Fairisle. It also makes Sirocco a good choice where colour changes are necessary. And it makes Sirocco a very economical yarn because it goes further.

Sirocco comes in 400g cones, is fully machine washable and is available in an attractive range of colours. It is particularly well suited for use on Duomatic and other double-bed machines.

Sirocco. The versatile and economical addition to the Forsell range of quality yarns. A book of 3-ply patterns for Sirocco is available at Forsell stockists.

Distributors:

USA - Nomi Lee Yarns, 142 Congressional Lane, Rockville, MD 20852. CANADA - Westrade Sales, 2711, no 3 Road Richmond, B.C. V6X 282. AUSTRALIA - Karingal Vic/Tas. pty Ltd. 10 Reid Street, Bayswater, Victoria 3153. HOLLAND - Projeko, Raamsingel 30, 2012, DT, Haarlem.

T. Forsell & Son Ltd., Blaby Road, South Wigston, Leicester LE18 4SG.

Helpline

Don't struggle alone with your problems, write to our helpline for some expert advice. Hazel will be very pleased to hear from you.

A problem shared is a problem halved and on this page we share our readers, problems and turn them into something useful by passing on what we all learn from our mistakes.

Joan Clayton from Penwortham, Preston has a lace problem ... or does she have a gremlin in her lace carriage ? ...

Please can somebody help me and explain why my lace carriage is so temperamental? Why does it work perfectly and then put extra holes in a row and then it stays in that mood for a few rows before behaving itself properly again? I've cleaned it, oiled it, praised and cajoled it and yes I've even threatened it, all to no avail. It just does what it wants. I've no bent needles, it is well weighted and I keep moving the weights up so why the problem? I knitted the back of a jumper with no problem; I came to knit the front and everything went wrong. For two inches there was no problem and then I got holes where I didn't want them and didn't get holes where I did want them ... so PLEASE, what is the answer?

I must thank you for a wonderful magazine and I can't wait for it to come, then I can sit down with a cup of coffee, relax and enjoy myself.

P.S. My machine is a Knitmaster 360 with ribber and I do remember to bring my lace over the ribber.

I know the feeling and it is very frustrating when there seems to be no special pattern to what is happening. The only clue that seems to emerge is the fact that you have already knitted quite a lot before anything started to go wrong. I wonder if the yarn needs waxing as you have got nearer to the centre of the cone of yarn. Or could it be that with a lesser number of stitches on you have too much weight. It is always a case of a process of elimination until you find out the cause of the problem. I would try less weight and waxing the yarn, knit slowly and, just in case it is the lace carriage being temperamental, put two hand knitting needles in a jam jar somewhere where the carriage can see them and perhaps that will scare it into behaving!

Seriously though, try the wax and less weight and let us see if any readers can come up with any other suggestions.

Mrs Joann den Dulk wrote a very interesting letter to us from her home in Saudi Arabia.

I have to write to tell you how much I love the Modern Machine Knitting magazine. You will probably be surprised to get a letter from a knitter in Saudi Arabia. You would think that this is a country too hot for knitwear. Well, I am living here already for ten years, and I have knitted a lot in those years. Originally from Holland, I was already a machine knitter and I brought my machine with me when we moved to here, thinking that I had at least something to do by knitting for my children and grandchildren back home. But it was surprising, when people found out that I was knitting, how many came to ask me to make them something. A lot of expats live here and sooner or later they all go home on vacation to colder climates. I also knit toys for the children. I have a subscription for your magazine since 1990 via a knitting studio in Holland. They are sent to my home address in Holland and once in a while when we are going home for a vacation I can pick them up and have a lot to read and see coming back here. It is so inspirational! It doesn't matter at all to me that I get the Christmas/December issue in July and so on. To me, most of it is timeless anyway.

Sometimes I have to hide them deeply in my suitcase, because especially the summer issues have pictures with lots of bare arms and low necklines. To show that is absolutely forbidden here. Customs will tear the pages out if they find them. So far, I was lucky and brought them all in a good condition. I love all the articles and read each issue almost from cover to cover. I have to bring in my yarn as well, because that is not available here. So most of the times I have to convert to another tension because my yarn is different from that stated. Not really a problem for me but sometimes I run into difficulties. After all, English is not my native language. Some technical terms are unknown to me, for example: 'Cast off sts taking yarn behind gate pegs'. What does that mean, can you explain that please? In all your patterns is a way of giving the increasing/decreasing like: 1S2Rx6/2S2Rx3/14S2Rx1. I think I know what you mean by that, but please could you let me know exactly. There is still another favour I would like to ask. Can you give an article on explaining how to make nice buttonholes, not only in stocking stitch, but especially in rib borders, 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib and full needle rib for horizontal and/or vertical buttonholes. I have never been able to do these to my satisfaction. Looking through all the magazines I have not been able to find anything on buttonholes. I try to avoid them mostly but it does not always work. Thank you so much already and I am looking forward to the next issues.

Thank you for your letter Joann, I am sure that our readers have found it as interesting as we did here in the office ... imagine having your knitting patterns confiscated!!

Casting off round the gate pegs gives you an even, not too tight cast off. Above is a diagram of the gate

We'll be pleased to hear from anyone who has a specific query on any knitting machine, whether it be a standard, chunky, DK or fine gauge; manual, punchcard or electric model. Your questions might concern a knitting technique, patterning query, use of one of the accessories, or a general problem you are experiencing. Don't forget, it doesn't matter whether you are an experinced knitter or just starting out as a beginner to machine knitting - your query might help others too! Please send your letters to Hazel Ratcliffe at Modern Knitting Helpline, MMK, 17 Grove Park, Waltham Road, White Waltham, Maidenhead, Berkshire SL6 3LW. We'll send a Modern Knitting binder to readers whose letters we publish.

K: Knit

P: Purl

st/sts: stitch/stitches

rep: repeat

dec: decrease

cont: continue

cm: centimeters

in: inches

A/B/C/D/E/F: Color codes indicated in the pattern key