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Check mate
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Level
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Check mate

Learn how to machine knit the 'Check mate' houndstooth sweater with this comprehensive vintage pattern. Features Fair Isle techniques, 1x1 ribbing, and detailed shaping instructions for a stunning Pure New Wool pullover.

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CHECK MATE

Whether playing chess or walking your favourite dog, Fran Francis' houndstooth check sweater in Forsell Pure New Wool 4-ply is sure to be a winner!

BACK

With carriage at right and using MT-8/MT-8 and MC, cast on 154 [162, 170, 178, 186, 194] sts at centre in 1x1 rib. K 5 tubular rows. Carriage is at right. Set carriage for 1x1 rib knitting. Set RC at 000. Using MT-4/MT-4, K 14 rows. Transfer sts for st st. Set RC at 000. Using MT, cont in Fair Isle patt *. K 230 rows.

Shape Neck

Note patt row on card. Using nylon cord, K 107 [111, 115, 119, 123, 127] sts at left by hand, taking Ns down to NWP. Cont on rem sts for first side. K 1 row. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next and foll alt row, K 1 row. Dec 1 st at beg of next row. Using WY, K a few rows in st st over rem 42 [46, 50, 54, 58, 62] sts and release from machine. With carriage at right, unravel nylon cord over 60 Ns at right, bringing Ns back to WP. Using WY, K a few rows and release from machine. With carriage at right, unravel nylon cord over rem Ns, bringing Ns back to WP. Lock card on number previously noted. Take carriage to left without knitting. Release card and cont in Fair Isle patt. Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

FRONT

Work as for back to *. K 206 rows.

Shape Neck

Note patt row on card. Using nylon cord, K 97 [101, 105, 109, 113, 117] sts at left by hand, taking Ns down to NWP. Cont on rem sts for first side. K 1 row. Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row until 42 [46, 50, 54, 58, 62] sts rem. K 14 rows. Using WY, K a few rows in st st and release from machine. With carriage at right, unravel nylon cord over 40 Ns at right, bringing Ns back to WP. Using WY, K a few rows and release from machine. With carriage at right, unravel nylon cord over rem Ns, bringing Ns back to WP. Lock card on number previously noted. Take carriage to left without knitting. Release card and cont in Fair Isle patt. Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

SLEEVES

With carriage at right and using MT-8/MT-8 and MC, cast on 76 sts at centre in 1x1 rib. K 5 tubular rows. Carriage is at right. Set carriage for 1x1 rib knitting. Set RC at 000. Using MT-6/MT-6, K 30 rows. Transfer sts for st st. Set RC at 000. Using MT, shape sides by inc 1 st at each end of every 3rd row until there are 90 sts, then on every foll 4th row until there are 150 sts. K 3 rows. RC shows 144. Cast off.

TO JOIN RIGHT SHOULDER

Push 42 [46, 50, 54, 58, 62] Ns to WP. With K side of right back shoulder facing, replace sts on to Ns. With P side of right front shoulder facing, replace sts on to same Ns. Unravel WY. Using MT+1 and MC, K 1 row. Cast off.

NECKBAND

Push 180 Ns to WP. With K side facing, pick up 180 sts around neck edge and place on to Ns. Unravel WY. Set RC at 000. Using MT and A, K 1 row. Transfer sts for 1x1 rib. Using MT-6/MT-6, K 27 rows. Transfer sts for st st. Using MT, K 1 row. Using WY, K a few rows and release from machine.

TO JOIN LEFT SHOULDER

Work as for right shoulder but read left for right.

PRESSING

With wrong side facing, pin out all pieces to measurements given. Press carefully, following instructions on cone band.

MAKING UP

Set in sleeves, matching centre to shoulder seams. Join side, sleeve and neckband seams. Fold neckband in half to right side and pin in position. Unravelling WY as required, backstitch through open loops of last row worked in A.

--- PATTERN INFORMATION & NOTES ---

PATTERN RATING

** Fairly easy for knitters with some experience.

MACHINES

This pattern is suitable for standard gauge punchcard or electronic machines with a ribber.

If you don't have a ribber, work ribs in mock rib.

MATERIALS

Forsell Pure New Wool 4-ply. (Yarn Guide No. 11.)

1 x 500g cone in Ivory (MC).

1 x 500g cone in Black (A).

A small amount in Hollyberry (B).

GARMENT WEIGHT

Finished garment in third size weighs 580g.

The fibre content of this yarn is 100% Wool. For further information about this yarn, please write to the following address:- T. Forsell & Son Ltd., Blaby Road, South Wigston, Leicester LE8 2SG.

PATTERN INFORMATION

For a list of the abbreviations we use, our Yarn Guide and mock rib instructions, please look under Pattern Information in Contents list on page 3.

MEASUREMENTS

To fit bust 82 [87, 92, 97, 102, 107] cm, 32 [34, 36, 38, 40, 42] in.

Actual size 104 [110, 115, 121, 126, 132] cm, 41 [43 1/2, 45 1/2, 47 1/2, 49 1/2, 52] in.

Length to shoulder 69.5 cm, 27 1/2 in.

Sleeve seam 46.5 cm, 18 1/2 in.

Instructions are written for the first size, larger sizes follow in brackets. If only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

TENSION

29 stitches and 36 rows to 10 cm, 4 in measured over Fair Isle pattern (tension dial approximately 9).

For perfect results, please check your tension carefully.

KNITTING NOTES

We used knit side of knitting as right side of garment.

Before knitting, prepare any punchcards or electronic sheets needed, from the charts provided. Note that punchcard patterns, as shown, may have to be repeated until the card is a suitable length for knitting.

Knit two colour Fair Isle rows with first colour given in back feeder 1/A to knit background and second colour given in front feeder 2/B to knit contrast pattern.

We used a Silver Reed card for the main part of this pattern and reproduce it courtesy of Silver Reed. For further information about Silver Reed cards and machines, please write to Silver Knitting Machines Ltd., Unit 1, 10 Wandle Way, Willow Lane Trading Estate, Mitcham, Surrey CR4 4TE.

Fair Isle Pattern

Insert card 1 and lock on first row. K 4 rows MC. Release card and cont in Fair Isle. K 4 rows MC/B. Remove card. Insert card 2 and lock on first row. Cont in st st. K 4 rows MC. Release card and cont in Fair Isle. K 28 rows MC/A. Remove card. Insert card 1 and lock on first row. Cont in st st. K 4 rows MC. Release card and cont in Fair Isle. K 4 rows MC/B. Remove card. Insert card 3 and lock on first row. Cont in st st. K 4 rows MC. Release card and cont in Fair Isle with MC in feeder 1/A and A in feeder 2/B.

SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM

BACK AND FRONT

A = 53 [55.5, 58.5, 61, 64, 66.5] cm

B = 4 cm

C = 65.5 cm

D = 24 cm

E = 1.5 cm

F = 8 cm

SLEEVE

G = 26 cm

H = 6.5 cm

I = 40 cm

J = 51.5 cm

Margin Text (Page 48): Scarf, DEBENHAMS. Leggings, LITTLEWOODS CATALOGUE. Bag, DOLCIS. Earrings and Bangle, VITTI.

Chart Text (Page 51): CHART 1, CHART 2, CHART 3.

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